Lake Como Day Trip: Varenna & Bellagio Without a Car (2026 Guide)

Planning a Lake Como day trip without renting a car? You’re in the right place. Nestled beneath the foothills of the Alps, this guide shows you exactly how to visit Varenna and Bellagio using only trains and ferries. I’ll also share transport tips, ferry advice, costs, and mistakes to avoid.

Lake Como had been on my Italy bucket list for years, and finally seeing places like Varenna and Bellagio with my own eyes felt every bit as magical as I had imagined. If anything, it exceeded my expectations.

From colourful lakeside villages and breathtaking views to scenic ferry rides and long lunches by the water, it’s easy to understand why Lake Como is one of the most famous destinations in Italy.

In this Lake Como guide, I’ll show you exactly how I spent my day exploring the lakeside without a car. You’ll find the best things to do in Varenna and Bellagio, where to eat, how to get around, and my biggest lessons learned to help you make the most of your visit.

How To Plan a Lake Como Day Trip Without a Car

One of the biggest surprises for me was just how easy it was to visit Lake Como without a car.
I travelled from Bergamo to Varenna using public transport. Due to temporary rail replacement works, my route involved a bus to Ponte San Pietro, followed by trains to Lecco and then Varenna. In normal circumstances, there are usually simpler connections between Bergamo and Lecco.

I booked my tickets through the Trenord and paid just €6.10 each way. The tickets were valid within a six-hour window, meaning I wasn’t tied to one specific train. I booked my outbound journey the night before and my return ticket later that day from Varenna.

If you’re travelling to Lake Como from Milan, it’s even easier. Direct trains run from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino in around 1 hour, making it one of the best Lake Como day trips from Milan.

Can You Drive to Lake Como?

Yes, although parking can be challenging and expensive, especially during high season.

Approximate driving times:

• Bergamo to Varenna: just over 1 hour car ride
• Bergamo to Lecco: around 50 minutes
• Bergamo to Como: around 1 hour

If you prefer driving, Lecco can be a good compromise. You can park there and continue by train.

My Top Transport Tips

• Use the Trenord app to book train tickets
• You don’t need to book regional trains far in advance
• Arrive early. I reached Varenna around 7:20 am and had a few peaceful hours before the crowds arrived
• Tour groups typically start appearing from around 9:30–10:00 am
• Returning later in the day can be very busy, especially on trains heading towards Milan, so prepare for the crowds at the platforms
• If you travel to Bergamo, take a train that terminates in Lecco and then change to Ponte San Pietro rather than waiting for the busy direct train back to Milan via Lecco

How To Get Around Lake Como

Getting around Lake Como without a car is relatively easy thanks to the ferry network connecting the lakeside towns.

Lake Como Ferry Guide

The ferries are not only practical but also one of the highlights of visiting Lake Como.
I used the ferries to travel between Varenna and Bellagio, with each crossing taking around 15 minutes. The moment you step off the ferry, you’re greeted by the sparkling waters of Lake Como and postcard-perfect views.

You can purchase tickets through the official Navigazione Laghi website or at the ticket offices.

Buy Ferry Tickets In Advance

This is probably my biggest tip. Even if you already have a ticket, you’ll still need to queue to board the ferry. However, buying tickets in advance means avoiding the often enormous ticket office lines. 

If you don’t want to purchase online, arrive early in the morning and buy your tickets as soon as you reach Varenna.

Ferry Costs

• Single journey (Varenna–Bellagio): €5.50
• Day passes with unlimited travel are also available (at the ticket counter) and can be worthwhile if you plan to visit multiple towns

What I Learned

• Expect queues throughout the day, especially between 10:00 am and 5:00 pm
• Leave plenty of extra time before your planned departure
• Bring water, sunscreen, a hat, or even a small umbrella, as there is often very little shade while waiting (I was roasting in the sun!!!)
• If possible, stay overnight. The early mornings and evenings are when Lake Como is at its most peaceful
• With more time, I’d explore other beautiful towns such as Bellano, Menaggio, Como, and Tremezzo rather than trying to squeeze too much into one day (quality over quantity!)

Lake Como Ferry Map

Varenna: My Favourite Town On Lake Como

Out of the two towns I visited, Varenna completely stole my heart and ended up being my favourite stop on this Lake Como day trip.

It felt more relaxed, more authentic, and somehow a little less polished than Bellagio. The colourful waterfront, narrow alleyways, and slower pace made it the perfect introduction to Lake Como.

If you’re spending a day in Varenna, arriving early (~7.30 am) makes all the difference. Before the tour groups arrived, the town felt wonderfully peaceful. Locals were opening cafés, the lake was calm, and there was a quietness that quickly disappeared later in the day.

If you’re wondering which town to choose, Varenna would easily be my pick.

Best Things to Do in Varenna

1. Walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati

Also known as the Walk of Lovers, this scenic lakeside promenade is one of the most famous things to do in Varenna. Arriving early meant I could enjoy it almost entirely to myself. I ended up walking it more than once throughout the day, and each time the views felt just as magical.

Tip: Walk it more than once throughout the day. The changing light completely transforms the atmosphere and gives you very different photos each time.

2. Visit Villa Monastero

Villa Monastero quickly became one of my favourite places on Lake Como. The elegant villa gardens stretch along the waterfront and offer beautiful lake views, cypress trees, colourful flowers, and countless photo opportunities.

I arrived shortly before opening time, and there was already a queue forming. If visiting in high season, I’d recommend coming as early as possible. Make sure to allow at least 1-2 hours to wander the gardens, take gorgeous photos (don’t forget your tripod if you travel solo!), and soak in the beautiful lake views.

3. Climb Up To Castello di Vezio

If you’re up for a bit of exercise, don’t miss Castello di Vezio. The ticket costs €7.
The uphill walk takes around 20–30 minutes and becomes quite steep in places, but the reward is worth every step. From the top, you’ll be treated to spectacular panoramic views across central Lake Como. There are also the castle’s famous ghost sculptures and a small café where you can stop for a cold drink before heading back down.

Tip: Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, as the stones and pebbles on the trail can be slippery, especially on the steeper sections. Bring plenty of water, and don’t forget a hat and sunscreen, particularly if you’re visiting during the warmer months.

4. Grab Lunch at La Scarpetta

After the hike back down from Castello di Vezio, I was more than ready for lunch, and La Scarpetta turned out to be one of my favourite meals of the entire trip.
It strikes the perfect balance between local charm, delicious food, a relaxed atmosphere, and fairer prices by Lake Como standards.

I ordered the fettuccine Alfredo with black truffle, paired with an Aperol Spritz, and it was absolutely worth it. The meal also came with fresh bread, homemade butter, and filtered water – simple touches that made the experience feel even more special.

Tip: Try to arrive around opening time (12 pm), as the queue forms quickly and waiting times can easily reach 30 minutes. If you’re short on time, you can also order your pasta to go and enjoy it by the lake instead.

5. Wander Through Varenna’s Old Town

One of the best things to do in Varenna costs absolutely nothing.
Lose yourself in the narrow alleyways, admire the colourful buildings, browse local shops, and simply enjoy the atmosphere. Some of my favourite moments weren’t planned at all. They happened while strolling through the quiet streets with nowhere particular to be. 

6. Enjoy an Aperol at Bar Il Molo

After a long day of exploring, this ended up being one of my favourite moments.
I managed to grab one of the front tables overlooking the water and ordered an Aperol Spritz while waiting for my train. It came with olives, crisps, and nuts, and offered the perfect excuse to slow down and soak up the views one last time before heading back to Bergamo.

Where To Eat in Varenna

Like most places around Lake Como, Varenna isn’t short on restaurants with a view. However, not all of them offer great value for money. These were some of my favourite spots, ranging from simple breakfast cafés to relaxed lunch options.

Best Cafés & Breakfast Spots

• Al Barilott Bar Tabacchi: A simple local-style café near the station, and a great place to start the day before the crowds arrive
• 27 metriquadri: A slightly trendier option with a lovely lakeside atmosphere

Best Restaurants In Varenna

• La Scarpetta: great for pasta
• Il Cavatappi: try risotto, lake fish and local wine
• Osteria Quattro Pass: slightly more polished, great for pasta, seafood, and lake fish
• Il Molo: enjoy a glass of Aperol spritz while watching the sunset

Where to Stay in Varenna

If I were to return to Lake Como, I wouldn’t hesitate to stay in Varenna. Early mornings and evenings are when the town feels at its most magical, long after most of the day trippers have left.

• Hotel Olivedo
• Hotel Villa Cipressi
• Hotel Royal Victoria

Planning a day trip to Lake Como? Check out this organised day trip from Milan, visiting Lake Como and Lugano

Bellagio: Beautiful But Busy

Bellagio is probably the most famous town on Lake Como, and it’s easy to see why.
With its elegant waterfront, charming streets, and beautiful villas, it has all the ingredients of the postcard-perfect Lake Como experience.

That said, Bellagio was also by far the busiest place I visited. By the time I arrived, the crowds were in full swing, and the narrow streets were packed with visitors.

Even so, visiting later in the afternoon turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The light became softer, some of the day trippers started to leave, and the atmosphere gradually became a little calmer.
While I personally preferred Varenna, Bellagio is still absolutely worth visiting.

Best Things to Do in Bellagio

1. Walk Up Salita Serbelloni

This is probably Bellagio’s most photographed street.
Lined with boutiques, cafés, colourful buildings, and flower-filled balconies, it’s undeniably beautiful. However, it’s also one of the busiest spots in town, so don’t expect to have it all to yourself.

2. Visit Basilica di San Giacomo

Tucked away just off the main streets, this small Romanesque church dates back to the 12th century.
It doesn’t take long to visit, but it’s a lovely place to escape the crowds for a few moments and admire the beautiful interior. Also, it’s a good place to cool down on a hot day.

3. Stop for Gelato at Gelateria del Borgo

After all those steps and ferry rides, gelato is practically mandatory.
Gelateria del Borgo is one of Bellagio’s most popular spots and the perfect excuse to take a break while wandering through town.

4. People Watch at Piazza della Chiesa

This lively square quickly became one of my favourite spots in Bellagio.
Grab a seat, take a break, and watch daily life unfold around you while soaking up the atmosphere.

Tip: The fountain in the centre provides cold drinking water, making it the perfect place to refill your bottle and cool down on a warm day.

5. Stroll Along the Waterfront

One of the simplest but most enjoyable things to do in Bellagio is to wander along the lakeside promenade.
The views across the lake are beautiful (Tremezzo is opposite Bellagio), and you’ll spot ferries arriving and departing throughout the day.

6. Visit Punta Spartivento & Spiaggetta della Punta

Located at the tip of Bellagio, Punta Spartivento offers some of the best views in town. From here, you can admire the meeting point of Lake Como’s branches and enjoy sweeping views across the water towards the surrounding mountains.

Right next to the viewpoint, you’ll find Spiaggetta della Punta, a small pebbly beach and lakeside promenade where locals and visitors gather to relax, dip their feet in the water, and soak up the scenery. On a warm day, it feels like the perfect place to slow down for a while before catching the ferry back.

Tip: If you visit later in the afternoon, the atmosphere tends to be much calmer, and you’ll often find people sunbathing, swimming, or simply enjoying the views.

7. Visit Villa Melzi Gardens

If you love gardens and have extra time and energy, Villa Melzi is worth considering.
That said, after already visiting Villa Monastero and hiking up to Castello di Vezio, I personally chose to skip it and simply enjoy Bellagio itself instead.

Where To Eat in Bellagio

Bellagio is packed with restaurants, cafés, and gelaterias, although you’ll generally pay a little more compared to other Lake Como towns. These are the places I’d recommend based on my experience and research.

• Trattoria San Giacomo: Great for traditional Italian dishes, homemade pasta, and a charming setting just off the main streets
• Gelateria del Borgo: The perfect place to stop for a gelato while exploring Bellagio
• Aperitivo Et Al: If you’re looking for a proper aperitivo experience, this cosy wine bar hidden just off Salita Serbelloni is hard to beat
• Bar Caffè Vecchio Borgo: Great for a coffee stop

Tip: Bellagio tends to be busiest around lunchtime. Consider eating slightly earlier or later to avoid the longest waits.

Where to Stay in Bellagio

Bellagio is one of the most sought-after places to stay on Lake Como. While accommodation tends to be more expensive here, waking up before the crowds arrive is a pretty special experience.

• Hotel Florence
• Hotel Du Lac
• Hotel Bellagio

Tip: If you choose to stay in Bellagio, make the most of the quieter mornings and evenings. Once the day trippers leave, the town feels far more relaxed and enjoyable.

Varenna or Bellagio: Which Town Should You Choose?

If you’re debating Varenna or Bellagio, my answer is simple: if I had to choose just one, I’d pick Varenna.

Don’t get me wrong. Bellagio is beautiful. The elegant streets, waterfront views, and lively atmosphere make it one of the most iconic towns on Lake Como. However, it also felt noticeably busier and a little more polished and touristy.

Even though Varenna wasn’t exactly quiet, it still felt more authentic and easier to enjoy at a slower pace. I loved wandering through its colourful alleyways, walking along the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, and lingering by the waterfront without constantly navigating crowds.

Varenna also offers a little more variety. Beyond the lakeside charm, you can hike up to Castello di Vezio for panoramic views over Lake Como and explore nearby walking trails.

So, when it comes to Bellagio vs Varenna, Bellagio is absolutely worth visiting, but Varenna stole my heart. It was the place I wished I had spent more time in.

Other Places To Visit Around Lake Como

If you have more time, I highly recommend staying at Lake Como for at least 1-2 nights. Three days would be an ideal time to visit towns properly. It gives you the chance to slow down, avoid rushing between ferries, and discover some of the lake’s lesser-known corners.

Here are a few places I’d add to my own itinerary next time:

• Bellano: Best known for the spectacular Orrido di Bellano, a dramatic gorge with waterfalls, walkways, and a suspension bridge carved into the rock. Entrance costs around €7, and it’s one of the most unique attractions around Lake Como
• Menaggio: A charming lakeside town with a beautiful promenade, colourful piazzas, and a more relaxed atmosphere. It’s often overlooked in favour of Bellagio and Varenna, making it a great place to escape some of the crowds. Also, to spend a relaxing day at the lake
• Como: The largest town on the lake and a popular base thanks to its excellent transport connections. Explore the elegant old town, stroll along the waterfront, and take the funicular up to Brunate for panoramic views over Lake Como
• Tremezzo: Home to the famous Villa Carlotta, known for its botanical gardens, elegant interiors, and spectacular lake views. A must for garden lovers
• Tremezzina & Villa del Balbianello: Probably the most famous villa on Lake Como. Perched dramatically above the lake, Villa del Balbianello has appeared in films including Star Wars and Casino Royale, and has become one of the most photographed spots in the region. It isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, but if it’s on your bucket list, it’s well worth planning ahead
• Nesso: One of Lake Como’s hidden gems. This tiny village is famous for the picturesque Orrido di Nesso, where a waterfall cascades dramatically beneath an ancient stone bridge into the lake below

If I return to Lake Como, this is exactly how I’d do it: spend two or three days exploring beyond the famous hotspots and enjoying the lake at a much slower pace.

Practical Tips & Lessons Learned

Is a Lake Como Day Trip Worth It?

Absolutely!
If one day is all you have, don’t let that stop you from visiting. This Lake Como day trip ended up being one of the highlights of my Northern Italy itinerary.

Did I wish I had more time? Of course. Lake Como is one of those places that deserves to be enjoyed slowly, with long lunches by the water and time to explore beyond the most famous towns.

But even in a single day, I managed to wander through colourful Varenna, climb up to Castello di Vezio for breathtaking views, take scenic ferry rides across the lake, and experience the beauty of Bellagio.
For me, Lake Como more than lived up to the hype. Bellagio was beautiful, but Varenna was the place that truly stole my heart.

So if you’re wondering whether a Lake Como day trip is worth it, my answer is simple: absolutely yes. Just plan ahead, take an early train from Milan or Bergamo, and soak up every moment to have an unforgettable day.

Italy Lake Como Map